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Education

Gems, Pearls, and Precious Metals

87+ Years of Experience Competitive Pricing
Custom Jewelry Designs

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THIS DIAMOND EDUCATION DEFINES THE MOST ESSENTIAL CHARACTERISTICS OF A DIAMOND ALONG WITH TIPS FOR ITS CARE. BY UNDERSTANDING THESE CHARACTERISTICS, YOU’LL BE ABLE TO SHOP WITH CONFIDENCE.
 

Important Characteristics of Diamonds and Tips for Their Care

Diamond Cut 

The beauty of a diamond depends on how well it is cut as it reflects light to maximize the stone’s brilliance. The exceptional ability of diamonds to reflect light is maximized only by cutting and polishing them to an extremely high level of accuracy. A proper cutting may reduce the size of the stone, but its market value may increase due to the resulting enhanced brilliance and sparkle. It is essential to know about the features of a diamond before trying to understand the importance of its "cut."
  • Diameter: Width of a diamond measured through the girdle
  • Table: Largest facet of a gemstone
  • Crown: Top portion of a diamond extending from the girdle to the table
  • Girdle: Intersection of the crown and pavilion which defines the perimeter of the diamond
  • Pavilion: Bottom portion of a diamond, extending from the girdle to the culet
  • Culet: 
    • Facet at the tip of a gemstone
    • The preferred culet is not visible with an unaided eye (graded “none” or “small”)
  • Depth: Height of a gemstone measured from the culet to the table
Cut of a diamond
The cut of a diamond establishes how it reflects light, which is responsible for its sparkle or brilliance.
  • Diamond cut by shape 
    • Describes the outline of the stone and pattern of the facet arrangement
    • A stone can be cut in various shapes like round, princess, heart, oval, pear, and more
  •  Diamond cut by depth
    • Shallow cut:
      •  A shallow cut will let light to be lost through a diamond's bottom causing it to appear dull.
    • Deep cut:
      • A deep cut will allow light to be lost through a diamond's sides causing it to appear dark.
    • Ideal cut:
      • An ideal cut is considered to be the best cut. Such a cut will ensure that most or all of the light entering the diamond is reflected back to the eyes.

Diamond Polish and Symmetry

Polish and symmetry are two important aspects of the cutting process. A diamond's polish refers to the smoothness of its facets whereas its symmetry refers to the alignment of the facets. A poor diamond polish, or rough facets, can diminish a diamond's brilliance, as well as its value.

Color

Diamonds are found in all colors of the rainbow, from colorless and transparent stones to ink-black ones. Varying degrees of yellow or brown color is common in most of the diamonds and a slight difference in color can make a substantial difference in value. A truly colorless diamond is extremely rare and considered to be the most valuable among all other diamonds. It allows most light to pass through creating the most brilliance.

During the formation of diamond from carbon, certain chemicals may be drawn into the mix resulting in an added tinge of color in the transparent stone. Most diamonds appear white to the naked eye, but they all include traces of yellow or brown color. The color scale goes from D to Z (no diamond of color grade A, B or C has ever been found), with D being the most white and Z being the most yellow. The best way to see the true color of a diamond is by looking at it against a white surface.

Although the majority of diamonds come in shades of white, there are also “Fancy” natural intensely colored diamonds available in colors like yellow, pink, green, brown, red, orange, blue, etc. These intensely colored diamonds are very rare, attractive, and desirable. A deeply colored diamond can cost more than its colorless counterpart. These intensely colored diamonds are known as “Fancy” colored or “Fancies”.

Fancy colored diamonds are graded in two ways. The first factor is the basic hue, such as pink, yellow, blue, green, etc. The second is the intensity. Both color characteristics form the basis for determining a fancy colored diamond's worth. In fancy colored diamonds, Z+ grade is used for their color grading. Usually, the more intense the color, the rarer and more expensive the diamond will be. For example, a fancy light pink diamond costs less than a fancy vivid pink diamond of equal size, shape and clarity.

Though fancy colored diamonds rarely occur in nature, laboratories can easily create them through irradiation and heating. This process can permanently turn a natural colorless diamond into a fancy colored diamond. Treatments have also been developed to make lower-color white diamonds whiter. Irradiated colored diamonds have a significantly lower value than natural fancy diamonds and can be detected in a gem laboratory.

Fluorescent Diamonds

Fluorescence is a form of illumination that is created when a diamond is exposed to low- or high-wave ultraviolet radiation. Fluorescence up to some extent is common in a majority of diamonds. Faint or medium fluorescence will rarely affect a diamond's appearance. Usually fluorescence remains unnoticed by human eyes in ordinary light.

Clarity

Clarity is a term used to describe the absence or presence of flaws inside or on the surface of a diamond. In other words, the clarity of a diamond refers to a diamond's purity. When these flaws / marks occur internally, they are called inclusions, and the most common types of inclusions include crystals, tiny bubbles representing small minerals that were absorbed into the diamond while it was growing.

On the contrary, when these flaws or marks occur on the surface, they are known as blemishes, and the most common types of blemishes include polish lines, naturals, scratches, nicks, pits, transparent stress lines that appear on a diamond's surface. Surface graining and extra facets are usually cut to remove a near-surface inclusion to raise the clarity grade of a stone. 

Most diamonds have these imperfections in them. Although many of these flaws are not visible to the naked eye, but under magnification, tiny feather-like shapes, crystals, bubbles, and dark flecks become noticeable. These slight flaws make every diamond quite unique, but they also affect the beauty and value of the diamond.

A diamond's clarity is based on the number, size, nature, and location of imperfections in the finished stone. A diamond with higher clarity is more valuable in comparison to a diamond that contains numerous inclusions, because the latter is less brilliant due to inclusions interfering with the light passing through it.

Carat

The term "carat" refers to the weight of a diamond. It is derived from the carob seeds, which are remarkably consistent in weight and shape and so were the favored scale balances in ancient times. This was standardized in 1907, and after that, 1 carat became 0.2 grams or 1/142 of an ounce. Furthermore, each carat is divided into 100 points. Therefore, a ¼ carat diamond is considered as 25 points and a ½ carat diamond is considered as 50 points and so on. 

This term "carat" is different from the term "karat”, which is used to describe the fineness or purity of gold. When we consider all four Cs that determine the value of a diamond, we can find the carat weight most accurately and easily by using a delicately balanced scale capable of weighing extremely small stones.

There is one significant fact about a diamond’s weight and price. When diamonds are mined, large diamonds are discovered more rarely in comparison to small ones, which make large diamonds much more valuable. For that reason, the price of a diamond rises exponentially with its size. So, a 2-carat diamond of a given quality is always worth much more than two 1-carat diamonds of equal quality. Although larger stones are often more highly valued, size should not be the only consideration. High brilliance, which varies according to clarity, cut, and color grade, is highly desirable in a diamond.

Shape

A diamond cut by shape describes the outline of the stone and pattern of the facet arrangement. Although diamonds are available in various shapes like round, princess, heart, oval, pear and more, when most people think of diamonds, what comes to their mind is the modern round brilliant cut, because in the jewelry industry, this shape is sold more than 75% of all diamonds. All other non-round shapes are called fancy shapes and these different diamond shapes show an individual's style and personality.

Some of the Most Popular and Stylish Diamond Shapes

List of Services

Importance of Diamond Certificates

Acquisition of a diamond or diamond jewelry is an important expression of love or accomplishment, but at the same time it also represents a major investment of money. It is essential for you to know the credentials of the diamond and obtain confidence in the integrity of what you have acquired.

A diamond certificate or diamond grading report is a statement, issued by an independent gemological laboratory, that states that at the time of evaluation, the diamond in question has been examined, measured, and scrutinized by experienced diamond graders, using various gemological instruments, and determined to contain the characteristics as stated in the certificate or report.

In other words, a diamond certificate can be accurately described as the blueprint of a diamond. This certificate or report includes an analysis of the diamond's characteristics in an easy-to-understand format. Generally a certificate or report covers the following characteristics of a diamond along with the laboratory and certificate details:
  • Name of the laboratory
  • Certificate number
  • Shape and cutting style
  • Measurements of the diamond’s diameter
  • Carat weight
  • Color grade
  • Clarity grade
  • Cut grade
  • Finish, polish and symmetry
  • Fluorescence
  • Comments
  • Plotted diagram of the diamond for the imperfections.
  • Key to symbols that helps us to identify characteristics marked in the plot
  • Security features for the certificate
  • Graphical image of the diamond structure
  • Information about the diamond's depth, table, girdles, culet, and facets, etc.
There are many laboratories available through out the world for diamond certification but the laboratories mentioned below are considered as most respected ones in the industry, for their consistency and unbiased diamond grading systems.
  • The Gemological Institute of America (GIA):
    • The Gemological Institute of America was established in 1931 in Los Angeles. The GIA created and introduced the international grading system. The headquarters is still located in Los Angeles.
  • The Diamond High Council (HRD):
    • The Diamond High Council is the officially recognized representative of the Belgium diamond trade and industry. The HRD headquarters are located in Antwerp, World Diamond Center.
  • The American Gem Society Laboratories (AGSL):
    • The American Gem Society Laboratories (AGSL) was established in 1934 in Las Vegas, Nevada by Robert M. Shipley, who also established the GIA.
  • International Gemological Institute (IGI)
    • The International Gemological Institute was established in 1975 in Antwerp. This institute has labs in New York, Bangkok, Mumbai, and Tokyo. Securing a certificate will provide you much-needed peace of mind knowing that you're getting your money's worth. 
Here are some reasons to buy a diamond along with its certificate:
      • A diamond certificate gives you the exact details of the stone, and on the basis of this information, you will be able to do some comparison-shopping before doing the actual purchase
      • A diamond certificate allows you to pay money on the basis of stone's characteristics. Your jeweler won't be able to charge you more and there are very good chances to get the best deals.
      • On resale of the diamond along with its certificate, you'll get a better price for the diamond.
      • To get insurance for your diamond, you also need to produce the diamond certificate.
It is a standard practice in the diamond industry, to ask for a diamond's certificate or grading report from the jeweler before you purchase it.

Care, Cleaning, Storage, and Maintenance of Diamond Jewelry

Diamonds are said to last forever as they're the hardest known substances on earth. But due to our day-to-day activities, it is inevitable that our precious diamond pieces get dirty and soiled.  They can suffer scratches, get chipped or become dull, if not handled correctly. With proper care, they can last a lifetime and can even be handed down as heirlooms to future generations without losing their shine and sparkle. So, here are some tips that will help you to preserve the life and beauty of your diamond.

Cleaning of Diamond Jewelry

Regular cleaning of your diamond jewelry is essential to maintaining their shine and brilliance. They can get dirty with regular use as they tend to get coated with your body's natural oils and the chemicals from the various skin care products you use. Even when you're not wearing them, they collect dust. If you're cleaning your diamond jewelry by yourself, it will take a few minutes, but before cleaning, you should be aware about the cleaning techniques to be used at home and the cleaning performed by a professional jeweler:
  • You can use a small soft brush such as an eyebrow or lip stick brush, soap and water to clean your diamond jewelry. Simply make a bowl of warm sudsy water with a mild detergent, and gently place your jewelry pieces in the mixture. Then, brush the diamonds with the soft bristles of the brush while they are in the suds. You'll need to make certain that you rinse them clear of the suds after cleaning them. After this process, use a soft cloth or a jewelry polish cloth to pat them dry.
  • If you feel that your diamond jewelry is in need of a stronger cleansing, you can use a solution of one part ammonia and six parts water for cleaning the diamonds. Once they are soaked for 30 minutes, remove them and gently brush the mountings with a small soft brush. Then use a mixture of soap and water to wash them, and after that use a soft cloth to pat them dry.
  • But, if you find yourself too busy to be mixing soaps and ammonia, you can use liquid jewelry cleaners which are sold by many departmental stores. You can find these liquid jewelry cleaners in kit form. You just need to follow all the written precautions and instructions of cleaning.
  • In the cleaning process, treat metal settings gently as gold can be scratched easily.
  • It is also a good idea to have them cleaned once a year by a professional jeweler, where he will check the security of the settings. He will also give advice for the repair of loose or bent prongs, which hold your diamond in place. This will prevent your diamond from falling out of its setting.
Storing of Diamond Jewelry

Storing of diamond jewelry is also important as a diamond can scratch another diamond, as well as other jewelry pieces.
  • Diamond jewelry should be stored individually in a soft cloth pouch to ensure that a diamond should not scratch other diamonds or other jewelry.
  • Diamond jewelry pieces are best stored in a fabric-lined jewel case or in a box with compartments or dividers.
Wearing Precautions for Diamond Jewelry
  • You should not wear diamond jewelry while doing heavy work. Even though a diamond is extremely durable, it can be chipped by a hard blow, and even everyday activities can loosen the jewelry setting.
  • You should avoid situations where your diamonds come in contact with chlorine bleach, hair spray or other chemicals, because they can pit or discolor the mounting.
If you will follow the above-mentioned caring tips, then your diamond jewelry will always shine and sparkle like new.

Wedding Anniversary Gift List

Traditional
  • 1st Paper
  • 2nd Cotton
  • 3rd Leather
  • 4th Fruit and Flowers
  • 5th Wood
  • 6th Sugar
  • 7th Copper and Wool
  • 8th Bronze, Pottery
  • 9th Pottery, Willow
  • 10th Tin
  • 11th Steel
  • 12th Silk, Linen
  • 13th Lace
  • 14th Ivory
  • 15th Crystal
  • 20th China
  • 25th Silver
  • 30th Pearl
  • 35th Coral
  • 40th Ruby
  • 45th Sapphire
  • 50th Gold
  • 60th Diamond
Modern
  • 1st Gold
  • 2nd Garnet
  • 3rd Pearls
  • 4th Blue Topaz
  • 5th Sapphire
  • 6th Amethyst
  • 7th Onyx
  • 8th Tourmaline
  • 9th Lapis
  • 10th Diamond
  • 11th Steel
  • 12th Jade
  • 13th Citrine
  • 14th Opal
  • 15th Ruby
  • 20th Emerald
  • 25th Silver
  • 30th Pearl
  • 35th Emerald
  • 40th Ruby
  • 45th Sapphire
  • 50th Golden
  • 60th Diamond

Facts About Precious Metals

What is Pure Gold?

Fine gold is softer than pure silver but harder than tin. Its beauty and luster are unmatched by any alloyed gold. The extreme malleability, ductility, and softness of pure gold make it practically useless for jewelry applications. Alloying elements (other metals) are added to gold to increase the toughness and hardness of the metal. While almost any metal can be alloyed (melted) with gold, only a select group of metals will not dramatically change the color or make the metal brittle. For example, we never mix Indium with gold because it turns gold purple and gives gold the workability of glass.
What is a Karat?

Over time, certain percentages of gold have become legally recognized “karats.” The karat indicates the amount of gold as a percentage of the total, i.e. 24 karat is 100 percent gold. In karated gold, there is a balance of metals in the non-gold percentage called alloys. These metals provide the various colors and hardness of karated gold. 18 karat gold is 18 parts gold and 6 parts alloys such as copper, nickel, silver, or zinc. 14 karat gold is 14 parts gold and 10 parts alloy. Gold standards vary around the world. In the United States, 18, 14, and 10 karat gold are the only karats allowed to be sold as karated gold.
What is the difference between 14k and 18k Gold?

18 karat gold means that the metal is 18 parts out of 24 pure gold, or in other words, 75% pure gold. 18 karat gold is the standard for European jewelry. 14 karat gold is 14 parts gold, or 58.5% pure gold. It is the standard for American jewelry.
What is Used to Change the Color of Gold?

The addition of alloying elements - other metals - to gold is used to increase the toughness and hardness of the metal, as well as change the color. Adjusting the proportions of coloring agents provides the wide array of colors seen on the market. Additional metals enhance properties such as castability, grain size, hardness, corrosion resistance, color, workability, ultimate strength, and others. These additions can dramatically change the properties of the karated metal for better or worse. For example, 18 karat rose gold is 75%, or 18 parts fine gold and 25%, or 6 parts copper. It is the rich red copper combined with the pure yellow gold that creates a warm rosy tone. 14 karat white gold is 14 parts gold and 10 parts white metal, either nickel or palladium. These white metals dominate the color, creating a warm gray tone.

Typical alloying elements and their color effect: 
Copper – Reddening
Silver – Greening
Zinc – Bleaching
Nickel – Whitening
Palladium – Whitening
Examples of the compositions of different colors are: 
Yellow Gold: copper, silver, zinc
White Gold: nickel, manganese, palladium, zinc, copper
Red (Rose) Gold: copper
Green Gold: silver
What is the Difference Between a Karat and a Carat?

A carat is a unit of weight for gemstones, where one carat equals 1/5 of a gram, or 200 milligrams. 142 carats equals one ounce. Carats are divided into 100 units, called points . For example, a half-carat gemstone would weigh .50 carats or 50 points. The important thing to note is that carat is a unit of weight, not a unit of size. A one-carat stone that is dense will be smaller than a one-carat stone that is less dense. For example, sapphires are denser than diamonds, so a one-carat sapphire will be smaller than a one carat diamond.

A karat is not a unit of weight. The word karat refers to the amount of gold in a particular item. Karats are measured in units of 24, where 24 karat gold is pure gold. 18-karat gold is 18 parts gold and 6 parts alloys such as copper, nickel, silver, or zinc. 14 karat gold is 14 parts gold and 10 parts alloy.

Platinum

Platinum is considered to be the “most precious” of the precious metals. Platinum is your metal of choice, when only the best will do. Rarer than gold, stronger, and more enduring, platinum is also the choice of jewelry designers for fine heirloom-quality jewelry.

History of Platinum:

Platinum evokes the future through its cool gray color and technological uses, but it also recalls the past. In the 1890's, the world renowned Louis Cartier introduced the metal as a setting, and made it part of his most exquisite creations for kings and millionaires. During the first forty years of the 20th century, platinum was the preferred metal for wedding and engagement rings and was almost always used to enhance the beauty of diamonds and other gemstones. However, for the duration of World War II, platinum was declared a strategic material and its use in most non-military applications was prohibited.

Platinum Statistics:
Due to the unusual characteristics of this metal, a platinum smith must have a different set of tools than a goldsmith. For instance, platinum melts at 3225 degrees Fahrenheit, compared to fine gold which melts at 1945. 
Platinum is more scarce than gold. The annual supply of platinum is only about 130 tons, which is only 6% (by weight) of the total Western World’s annual mine production of gold.
Approximately 10 tons of ore must be mined to produce one ounce of pure platinum. Furthermore, the total extraction process takes six long months.
All the platinum ever mined throughout history would fill a room of less than 25 cubic feet.
Platinum is even heavier than gold, because it is about 11% more dense. One cubic foot weighs around 1,330 pounds.
Platinum has more industrial uses than either silver or gold. In fact, more than 50% of the yearly production is consumed- read, destroyed - by industrial uses.
Also unlike gold, there are no large inventories of above-ground platinum. Therefore, any breakdown in the two major supply sources would catapult the price into orbit.
What is the Difference Between Platinum and White Gold?

Platinum is a precious metal that costs more than gold. It usually is mixed with other similar metals, known as the platinum group metals: iridium, palladium, ruthenium, rhodium, and osmium. Platinum is extremely dense, and is more heavier than gold or silver. Platinum has a remarkably high level of durability so it does not wear or tarnish like other metals. 

White gold is rhodium plated to give it the same white look as platinum, but eventually the rhodium wears off and the white gold takes on a yellow cast. White gold jewelry should be rhodium-plated every few years to maintain its whiteness. Platinum does not yellow or tarnish and maintains its white appearance with little maintenance and can develop a hazy patina over time.

Platinum is not susceptible to problems like stress cracking or corrosion as can be the case with white gold. Though platinum can suffer scratches, it is more durable than white gold and does not wear down or abrade like gold. Scratches can easily be removed by buffing, and all that is required to maintain platinum is to soak it in a mild solution of soap and warm water followed by gently rubbing with a soft bristled brush.
Palladium

Palladium is one of six metals in the platinum family. It has characteristics similar to that of platinum, such as high melting temperature, cool gray color, durability, and rarity. However, it is much less dense (has lower specific gravity) as compared to platinum. Palladium is a soft silver-white metal that resembles platinum. It is the least dense and has the lowest melting point of the platinum group metals. Palladium can be mixed with pure gold to create the finest white gold. Like platinum, it will develop a hazy patina over time.
Mokume-gane

Mokume-gane is a mixed-metal laminate with distinctive layered patterns. Literally translating as “wood eye metal,” the name was borrowed from a specific type of pattern created in the forging of swords and other edged weapons. Two or more metals are stacked in alternating sheets and fused together. The billet is then forged and formed and filed to reveal an interesting pattern of the layers of sheet.
Shakudo

Shakudo is a Japanese alloy made of 96% copper and 4% fine gold. It has a natural dark patina and, if worn away by sand or chemicals, will naturally re-darken through contact with water, air, the skin, and chemicals such as ammonia.
Sterling Silver

Sterling silver is the whitest of all the metals. Fine silver is generally too soft for most jewelry applications. Sterling silver is a mix of 92.5% fine silver and 7.5% copper. Silver products may sometimes be marked 925 , which means that 925 parts per thousand are pure silver. 99.9% silver is called “Fine silver.” Sterling components and jewelry made in the USA are often stamped “Sterling.” Goods made for international trade are often marked “925” indicating the 92.5% fineness. “Coin” silver is used in some countries and could be marked “900” or “800” depending on fineness.

Finding Your Ring Size

Tips for Measuring Ring Size

Here are some tips to make your ring size measurement more accurate:
  • Confirm the printed paper size with a ruler.
  • Pull tightly. The sizer must fit snugly to produce an accurate size.
  • Don’t measure cold fingers. This is when fingers are at their smallest.
  • For the most accurate reading, measure your finger at the end of the day when it is at its largest.
Tips for Buying a Ring as a Surprise
  • Ask your partner’s mother or one of her friends if they know her finger size.
  • Borrow one of your partner’s rings (from the correct finger) and use the Ring Sizer PDF to determine its size.

Terms to Know

Bar Setting
Similar to the channel setting, it is a circular band of diamonds or gemstones that holds each stone in by a long thin bar, shared between two stones.

Bezel Set
The bezel is simply a band of metal that is shaped into the size and shape of the gem and then soldered into place on the metal framework of the jewelry. This setting can be ideal for those with an active lifestyle or those who do not like prong settings.

Brilliant Cut
Brilliant cuts are scientifically found to reflect the most light from within the stone, and often are considered to have the most brilliance of all cuts. A round brilliant-cut diamond has 58 facets. Other brilliant cuts include the heart, oval, marquise, and pear shaped.

Cabochon
This is a gemstone which has been shaped and polished as opposed to faceted. The resulting form is usually a convex top with a flat bottom.

Carat
This is a unit of mass for gemstones, equal to 0.2 gram.

Certification / Cert or Diamond Grading Reports
This is a report done by independent laboratories that includes the grading information of a diamond.

Channel Set
This is a setting method that fits gemstones of uniform size tightly into a channel with no metal separating them to form a continuous strip, thereby eliminating the need for prongs.

Chronograph
A chronograph is a watch with both timekeeping and stopwatch functions.

Cushion Cut
This is a mixed-cut gemstone shaped like a square pillow.

Cultured Pearl
Natural pearls are those pearls which are formed in nature, more or less by chance. Cultured pearls, by contrast, are those in which humans play a helping hand by actually inserting a foreign object into the tissue of an oyster or mollusk. Pearl farmers can induce the creation of a pearl. Following the induction step, the same natural process of pearl creation takes place.

Cultured pearls - nucleated and non-nucleated or tissue-nucleated cultured pearls - and imitation pearls can be distinguished from natural pearls by X-ray examination. Once the pre-formed beads are inserted into the oyster, it secretes a few layers of nacre around the outside surface of the implant before it is removed after six months or more. When a nucleated cultured pearl is X-rayed, it reveals a structure that is different from that of a natural pearl. A cultured pearl shows a solid center with no concentric growth rings, whereas a natural pearl shows a series of concentric growth rings.

Fluorescence
When exposed to ultraviolet light, a diamond - and some gemstones - may exhibit a more whitish, yellowish, or bluish tint, which may imply that the diamond has a property called fluorescence. The untrained eye can rarely see the effects of fluorescence. Diamond grading reports often state whether a diamond has fluorescent properties. Fluorescence is not considered to be a grading factor or an important influence on a diamond's price. It is  only a characteristic of that particular diamond.

German Silver
A misleading name as this metal has no silver at all. It is the same as nickel silver which contains nickel, copper, and zinc.

Gold Electroplate
Gold electroplate is usually made by depositing a layer of fine gold on a base metal such as brass.

Gold Filled
Gold-filled jewelry is made by joining or bonding a top layer of gold alloy to a base metal and then rolling it to the thickness required. It resembles an “oreo” cookie, a thin layer of gold (usually 12K or 14K) with the base metal in the center.

Gypsy Set
The band is one continuous piece that gets thicker at the top. The top is dome shaped, and the stone is inserted in the middle.

Hardness
This is defined as the resistance a material offers to scratching or abrasion. Generally measured using the MOHS scale.

Illusion Set
This setting is more intricate than others in that it surrounds the stone to make it appear larger.

Karat
This is a measure of the purity of gold.

Nacre
This is also known as mother of pearl. It is an organic-inorganic composite material produced by some mollusks as an inner shell layer. It is made of platelets of calcium carbonate crystals that are secreted in response to the presence of an irritating substance in the mollusk.

Pavé
This is a type of setting where a number of small stones are set together. It literally means paved with diamonds.

Prong Set
In this, the metal tip or bead actually touches the stone and holds it into place. This setting usually consists of four or six claws that cradle the stone. Because this setting allows the maximum amount of light to enter a stone from all angles, it sometimes can make a diamond appear larger and more brilliant than its actual weight. This setting can also hold larger diamonds more securely.

Semi-Mount
This is a piece of jewelry in which the center gem is absent. This type of jewelry is perfect if you have a gemstone and are looking for a unique setting.

Solitaire
This is a single diamond or stone set by itself in mounting.

Tension Set
In this, a diamond is held in place by the pressure of the band’s metal, which is designed to “squeeze” the stone.

Vermeil
This is sterling silver, which has a layer of gold over the surface. The gold can be electroplated or mechanically bonded, as long as the gold is 150 micro inches thick.

Pearls

Types of Pearls

Freshwater Pearls – Although historically originating in Japan, freshwater pearl production has become a major industry in China. In this case, it is the humble clam, not its cousin, the oyster, which is equally capable of producing high-quality pearls. Traditionally, most freshwater pearls have irregular shapes, but experts are now producing round pearls up to 12 mm that can compete with Akoya for size and appeal.

South Sea Pearls – Highly coveted, South Sea pearls come from Australia, Indonesia, and the Philippines. Cultured in varieties of Pinctada maxima, this large, warm-water loving, gold- and silver-lipped oyster produces pearls of fabulous colors. Most South Sea Pearls are 14-17 mm but larger examples can be seen that are 16-20 mm!

Akoya – Akoya pearls are the best known of all cultured pearls. The cold-water Akoya-producing mollusk produces pearls between 2 and 10 mm in size, and each shell can produce 4-5 pearls at a time. The colors can be white, cream, gold, pink, green, silver, or golden.

Mabe – Often referred to as cultured half pearls or blister pearls, mabe pearls form on the inside of the oyster shell rather than in the soft tissue of the mollusk.

Tahitian – Often called “Black Pearls,” Tahitian pearls are found in French Polynesia, Northern Australia, and the Marshall, Cook, and Solomon Islands. They are created by the black-lipped oyster - that can grow to be 30 years old, 100 lbs., and over 12 inches in diameter!. The usual size for the Tahitian pearl ranges from 8 to 13 mm though larger sizes do occur and are highly prized. The color can be black with tones of peacock blue, green, and purple.

Pearl Strand Lengths

Collar – A collar necklace consists of a strand (or strands) of pearls that lie close to the neck.

Choker – A choker is 14 inches to 16 inches long and sits on the base of the neck.

Princess Necklace – A princess necklace is 18 inches to 20 inches long. Its length lies between the choker and matinee lengths.

Matinee Necklace – A matinee necklace is 22 inches to 24 inches long and sits at the top of cleavage.

Opera Necklace – An opera necklace is 30 inches to 35 inches long and sits at the breastbone.

Rope Necklace or Sautoir – A necklace whose length is longer than that of the opera necklace. A sautoir often has a pendant or tassel.

Types of Strands

Bib Necklace – A bib necklace has multiple strands of stepped pearls.

Graduated Necklace – A graduated necklace consists of a single strand of pearls that has a large pearl in the middle, with the pearls gradually becoming smaller toward the clasp.

Uniform Necklace – A uniform necklace consists of pearls that appear to be all the same size, although normally there is a slight difference towards the ends so they appear to be in proportion.

Pearl Grading

The most important thing to remember when selecting a pearl is that beauty lies in the eye of the beholder as most elements used to assess a pearl will depend on individual taste. Therefore, the most important test is subjective.

Luster

Luster is used to describe the beauty you see as light travels through the nacre of the pearl. Luster is not to be confused with surface shine. Luster is the brilliance that comes from deep within the nacre layers.

Complexion

Pearls may have surface characteristics, which may or may not detract from the pearls' beauty depending on the quality, depth, or visibility of the blemishes. These imperfections can be caused by particles finding their way into the mollusk and coming in contact with the pearl. Pearls are graded into 4 different complexion categories: Statement, Fine, Fashion, and Foundation.

Size

Generally, the size of the pearl affects the price. Large pearls are more difficult to cultivate because of the large size of the implanted nucleus that may be rejected by the mollusk. Pearls are measured in diameter increments of millimeters (mm). The longer the pearl remains in the mollusk, the thicker the nacre, the richer the glow, and the more valuable the pearl.

Shape

It is said that beauty lies in the eye of the beholder, and this is certainly the case when it comes to pearl shapes. Some shapes are: 
  • Round / near-round
  • Oval
  • Button
  • Baroque
  • Circle
  • Drop. 
The shape of a pearl does not affect its quality.

Color

There is a wide spectrum of colors that can be found in pearls. The basic colors include cream, gray, green, blue, and pink. The most popular colors are white and pink rose, because these shades flatter the widest range of skin tones. Color is based on preference, but it is always important to find a color that is rich and evenly distributed on the pearl. Pearls can also be bleached for whiteness or dyed for a wider range of colors.

Care of Pearls

Like any precious heirloom, pearl jewelry will require some care to preserve its freshness and beauty.

Occasionally clean the pearls gently with a cloth dampened in warm water or water with a very mild, diluted soap. Then, rinse the cloth in fresh water and wipe the pearls clean. Dry them with a soft cloth. Never soak or hang your strand as this can weaken the silk thread used. And do not store your pearls in direct sunlight or on a direct source of heat - such as a fireplace mantle, TV,  or stove - or store them in very dry places, such as safety deposit boxes, for long periods of time as this can dehydrate the pearls. Never store your pearls in any type of plastic bag. Plastic can emit a chemical that will cause the pearl’s surface to deteriorate.

Take advantage of the following hints to keep your pearls looking their lustrous best.
  • Wait until after applying makeup, perfume, and hairspray to put on jewelry. Some chemicals, such as those in lotions and the items mentioned above, may harm pearl jewelry.
  • Don’t allow pearls to rub against harder gems or other jewelry.
  • Before putting the pieces away, wipe the pearl jewelry softly with a clean cloth.
  • For storage, keep the pearl jewelry wrapped alone in a soft cloth and protected from abrasive objects.
Strands will need restringing from time to time depending on how often they are worn. A knot in between each pearl in a strand is recommended to keep the pearls from rubbing against one another and to keep the loss of pearls to a minimum should the strand break.

Gemstones

Browse through the information given below to find out more about some of the most popular gemstones used for jewelry.

List of Services

Check Out Your Birthstone

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